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The World's Most Authentic Sweatshirt

LOOPWHEELER was founded in 1999 with a mission to create the world’s most authentic sweatshirts. Our sweatshirts are made using only TSURIAMI fabric produced on TSURIAMIKI. Through a combination of Japanese craftsmanship and a relentless pursuit of perfection, our sweatshirts, made entirely in Japan, provide unparalleled comfort and durability.

What is "Tsuriamiki"?

In the early twentieth century, circular knitting machines called 'Loop Wheel Machines' were imported from Europe to support the rapid industrialization of Japan’s garment industry. These machines produced fabric renowned for its unmatched softness, ideal for sweatshirts and T-shirts that remained comfortable even after many washes. However, as mass production and efficiency-focused manufacturing gained prominence in the 1960s, Loop Wheel Machines were gradually replaced by high-speed knitting machines, and ultimately, computerized knitting machines, leading to the decline of this unique fabric.

In a quiet corner of Wakayama, Japan, a few Loop Wheel Machines continued to operate, resisting the trend of industrialization. Over time, these machines evolved into something distinctly Japanese: the TSURIAMIKI. Shokunin (craftsmen) meticulously refined and enhanced the Loop Wheel process to produce garments of even higher quality. This dedication to perfection also led to the creation of TSURIAMI—a refined version of Loop Wheel fabric that is more comfortable, durable, and quintessentially Japanese.

What makes us different

Recognizing the risk of losing both TSURIAMIKI and TSURIAMI fabric, our founder and CEO, Satoshi Suzuki, established LOOPWHEELER. His goal was to preserve this unique Japanese art form while pushing new frontiers for TSURIAMI fabric and continuing its evolution.

Today, approximately 200 TSURIAMIKI remain operational in Wakayama, the only place in the world where traditional Loop Wheel Machines continue to thrive. At LOOPWHEELER, we work closely with our partners and skilled artisans throughout the entire production process, passionately committed to preserving the artistry of TSURIAMI for future generations. This dedication not only honors tradition but also drives us to fulfill our mission of creating the world’s most authentic sweatshirts.


Our Process

Even today, vintage sweatshirts from the late 1940s to the mid-1960s are cherished by many.

Their enduring quality comes from the fabric made using TSURIAMIKI.

These machines produce only about one meter of fabric per hour, making them highly inefficient by modern standards. Most sweatshirts available today are made with high-speed, mass-production sinker knitting machines.

Today, the only place in the world where TSURIAMIKI are still operational is in Wakayama, Japan.

Knitting

TSURIAMIKI

TSURIAMIKI is able to produce only "one meter per hour" of TSURIAMI fabric. However, production speed varies with different fabrics. For instance, TSURIAMI pique fabric, used in our polo shirts, is even slower, at just 0.3 meters per hour.

In contrast, modern high-speed sinker knitting machines can produce over 10 meters of sweatshirt fabric and more than 3 meters of pique fabric per hour. This significant difference in efficiency has led to the decline of TSURIAMIKI and other circular knitting machines, as production speeds have been prioritized over quality.

WAKAYAMA - HOME OF THE TSURIAMIKI

Wakayama was once a thriving city known for having the largest number of TSURIAMIKI in Japan. Today, only two factories in Wakayama still use TSURIAMIKI: Kanekichi Industry Co., Ltd. and Wada Meriyasu Co., Ltd.

TSURIAMIKI is an old-style circular knitting machine. Circular knitting machines are the most commonly used for sweatshirt fabrics. TSURIAMIKI shown in the image is currently stored in the warehouse for parts.

Preparation

This machine is used to wind spun yarn in preparation for setting it on the TSURIAMIKI.

During the winding process, a thin layer of wax is applied to the surface of the yarn. This helps improve the yarn's smoothness, preventing knitting defects such as snags in the fabric or yarn breakage during the knitting process.

Knitting Site

The fabric is knitted at a slow pace, with the TSURIAMIKI operating at 24 rotations per minute. This gentle rotation minimizes tension on the yarn, allowing it to remain relaxed as the fabric is created. As a result, the natural softness and texture of the yarn are fully preserved in the finished material.

Different machine diameters are used to accommodate various sizes. Each size is produced on a machine with a diameter specifically suited to its body width, resulting in a seamless, tubular construction with no side seams.

Why It's Known as the "Tsuriami"

The TSURIAMIKI operates through belts and pulleys powered by a single motor. Interestingly, all the machines are suspended from the ceiling.

This suspended installation is the origin of the name "TSURIAMIKI" in Japanese, which directly translates to "suspended knitting machine." The key feature isn't just the slow 24 rotations per minute; it's also the way the yarn naturally drops by its own weight, allowing the fabric to be knitted without any added tension.

Speed vs. Softness

The sinker knitting machine emerged during a time of global economic growth, designed to meet the increasing demand for products. Now the dominant machine worldwide, it operates at 240 rotations per minute, producing over 10 meters of fabric per hour—about ten times the output of a TSURIAMIKI. It’s easier to maintain and requires less labor, but it cannot match the softness of Tsuriami fabric. Initially soft, sinker-made fabric becomes stiff after several washes, losing its texture after around three years, unlike the long-lasting softness of Tsuriami fabrics.

The Milk Bottle Solution

What’s inside this milk bottle? It’s actually lubricant. A rod wrapped in white cloth sticks out of the top, slowly absorbing the oil through osmosis. This helps the yarn glide smoothly through the machine. Continuing to use these old machines with unique, innovative methods is a brilliant idea conceived by Kanekichi. This process requires careful attention and a human touch—something that feels especially important in today’s world.

Where the Knit Begins Its Journey

The raw fabric, knitted on the TSURIAMIKI, marks the final step at the knitting site. Each roll measures approximately 22 to 23 meters, which translates to enough fabric for 17 to 18 sweatshirts. However, due to the slow production speed, only 11 to 12 meters—enough for 8 to 9 sweatshirts—can be produced in a day. Once the fabric is completed, it moves on to the dyeing process before being sent to the sewing factory for final assembly.

Sewing

Sewing Expertise from Japan’s Heartland

The fabric is expertly knitted in Wakayama, but the sewing process takes place in renowned factories across other regions of Japan. Once located in Tokyo, these factories began relocating in the 1960s and 1970s as advancements in transportation, like the Shinkansen and highway networks, made distribution more efficient.

One such factory, Aptimaluwa, operated by Maruwa Textile Industry Co., Ltd. in Aomori, is entrusted with the sewing and finishing processes for LOOPWHEELER products. In an age where overseas production dominates, the commitment to domestic craftsmanship in Japan is becoming increasingly rare and cherished.

Cutting and pressing

The long rolls of fabric are carefully cut into individual parts—front body, back body, sleeves, and pockets—using tailored patterns. Unlike woven fabrics, knit fabrics (called "meriyasu" in Japanese) tend to curl at the edges and may stretch or shrink due to the structure of the knitting. To ensure stability and precision, steam is applied to the fabric, adjusting its shape to match the pattern. Rather than pressing the fabric tightly, this ironing process is solely focused on stabilizing the material for the next steps.

Crafting the Details

Beyond the sleeves and body, this stage brings the finer components to life—each pocket, zipper, and eyelet meticulously assembled. Specialized machines and tools are used to perfect every piece, ensuring each detail complements the whole.

Twin-Needle Stitching

Each cut piece of fabric is marked with precise points, indicating where components like pockets will be placed. The pre-made parts, such as LOOPWHEELER’s signature 3D pockets, are sewn onto these marked positions using a twin-needle sewing machine, ensuring accuracy and durability.

Flat Seam Sewing

Flat seam stitching is used to create a seamless and comfortable finish. Typically, when sewing knit fabrics like sweatshirts, edges are overlocked to prevent fraying, then sewn together. While this gives a clean look on the outside, the inside seams can create bulk.

With flat seam sewing, fabric edges are overlapped minimally and sewn flat with a four-needle machine, avoiding bulk and improving comfort. Though slower than other methods, flat seam stitching has become rare today. LOOPWHEELER products incorporate flat seams in key areas for maximum comfort and quality.

Finishing Touches

Once all sewing is completed, the final step involves detailed inspection, such as tidying up loose threads and inspecting every stitch for precision.

Final Pressing for Perfection

During the finishing stage, steam ironing eliminates every wrinkle, shaping the fabric to perfection. This precise process ensures each piece reflects the refined quality synonymous with LOOPWHEELER.

Bringing It All Together

After every detail is perfected, the sweatshirt is ready. Tags are attached, and it’s carefully packed, prepared to leave the hands of artisans and embark on its journey—representing the unparalleled craftsmanship of LOOPWHEELER.


Our Team

Knitting

Kanekichi Industries Ltd.

Kanekichi Industries Ltd. is one of only two factories worldwide equipped with the rare TSURIAMIKI. Established in 1920 and based in Wakayama City, this historic company has passed down its skilled craftsmanship through generations. Unlike modern, high-speed, digitally controlled knitting machines, TSURIAMIKI have a simple structure that requires precise adjustments. Achieving the best fabric texture demands techniques honed over many years of experience.

The unique texture and comfort of LOOPWHEELER products are a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship found at Kanekichi Industries Ltd., where every detail is perfected by skilled artisans.

 

Sewing

Maruwa Textile Industries Co.,LTD

Maruwa Textile Industry Co., Ltd. stands as one of Japan’s leading sewing factories in both technology and scale. Headquartered in Sumida, Tokyo, with its main production line located in Aomori, this factory plays a key role in the creation of LOOPWHEELER products.

The fabrics are knitted on TSURIAMIKI in Wakayama, then sent to the Aomori factory (Aptimaluwa) for cutting and sewing before being shipped as finished products. For items requiring specialized sewing techniques, production is handled at the development studio in Tokyo. From spinning the yarn to the final product, every step is proudly completed within Japan.